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(see FAQ:Inkjet Transfer Films) These inkjet transfer methods work very well on very clean aluminum, wood, acrylic painted surfaces, and glass. These are my recommendations for using the DASS™ Super Sauce. My methods differ somewhat from the manufacturers instructions which you can find at Digital Art Studio Seminars website. The DASS Super Sauce is very versatile and it helps to understand at the beginning that different substrates require different preparations and applications of the Super Sauce. I hope you find my notes helpful as you develop your own workflow.
Gather your tools & materials
DASS™ Super Sauce
IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol 91% (DO NOT use rubbing alcohol 73% will not work)
Digital image flipped horizontally and printed onto transfer film by DASS or inkAID
Substrate to transfer image onto
Sturdy tube longer than the width of your substrate (ex: 26" long tube for a 24" substrate). I use found 2" diameter rigid aluminum tubes and pvc pipe. Any rigid tube /pipe will work. Chrome closet poles, plastic, pvc pipe, will work nicely too. Paper tubes work but can be too flimsy.
Tape: painters, masking or packing
Damp cloth or paper towel
Foam brushes: the brushes that are on wooden sticks seem to stand up to these mixes
Dense foam paint roller (used to prime canvas, wood and more textured surfaces)
Clean glass jars with metal or plastic lids (recycled jars that will accommodate a 2" wide brush/ mayo, pasta sauce, salsa, pickles jars)
TIP: Drill a hole through the middle of the lid to allow the wooden brush handle to poke out the lid. Then use a piece of plastic from a cereal bag as a liner for the jar top. I cut a square of bag liner to cover the top of jar and make a slit allowing the brush handle to go through it. This keeps the mix ready to use with a brush in the jar. If the hole in the lid is snug to the handle you can keep the brush wet in the jar but not bent, these brushes last a long time if they are not pushed against the bottom of the jar. Worth the effort to have the mix handy and not waste materials. Use DASS Super Sauce Concentrate full strength and Prepare 2 different mixes (Primer & Transfer Medium):
Different substrates require different preparations and applications of the Super Sauce
Use the DASS Super Sauce Concentrate full strength as a primer on textured surfaces such as wood, acrylic painted canvases and collages.
On highly polished surfaces such as glass, mirror, metal use the Primer Mix described below. After your substrates have been primed and dried you will use the Transfer Medium to transfer the inkjet print.
Make a primer mix: in a separate jar thin the some of the DASS Super Sauce CONCENTRATE WITH WATER APPROX 50%.
(NEVER ADD WATER TO THE SUPER SAUCE AFTER IT HAS BEEN DILUTED IT WITH ALCOHOL.)
Make the transfer medium: In another jar mix DASS Super Sauce Concentrate with IPA 91% AS DIRECTED then when it is clear thick liquid gently stir in/ add approx 10-25% more IPA to make it the consistency of the paint not honey. Use this thinned down Super Sauce Mix to brush/ flow it on to the glass, metal or acrylic painted surfaces. Preparing your substrate: (Different substrates require different preparations and applications of the Super Sauce)
Wash Glass thoroughly, Windex type cleaner then alcohol
Wash metal thoroughly (more effort than the glass, metal needs to be degreased and scoured with #0000 steel wool then cleaned)
Acrylic painted surface usually is smooth enough on boards, canvas and paper
Acrylic (plexiglass) needs to be roughed up with fine sandpaper then cleaned (not fully tested by me)
For Wood and more textured surfaces like painted canvas use sponge paint roller brush and full strength DASS Super Sauce Concentrate to and lightly coat 2 times. Let dry between coats. Dries very quickly, just a few minutes between coats For polished surfaces such as glass, mirror and metal use foam brush & brush a thin PRIMER coat of the diluted Super Sauce Concentrate let dry. If you put too much on it will cloud so put a thin layer down, 1 coat seems to work well. Prepare your inkjet print on DASS Film:
Flip your image horizontally and print it onto the film. Handle the print carefully to avoid smudging, scratching or removing the ink. Let it dry or blast is briefly with a hairdryer. Then use a damp cloth to go around the edges of the film right up close to the inkjet print to remove the precoat from the film to break the seal. This will prevent the film from sticking to the edges of your transfer surface. If you don't remove it the transfer will sometimes form strings and/or make holes, folds, bubbles in the transfer. Dry run your alignment: Practicing this when it is dry will help you get the transfer motion correct with even pressure. With all the pieces dry align the print to the board or glass you are transferring to. Do several dry runs to see if you can easily roll the film down on to the surface of the board. Secure the print with tape to the tube or to the table, try whatever is comfortable for you. You want to evenly and gently roll the tube over the back or film as you put the film down on the wet substrate. Be sure you have the ink side facing down onto the substrate when you are aligning the print to the substrate.
Transfer the print to the substrate: With the print securely aligned and out of the way and your substrate still in its aligned placement, coat the substrate with Transfer Medium (Super Sauce diluted with IPA) apply it in a thin even layer. Be careful don't move your substrate be sure all the pieces remain in your alignment place as you brush on the transfer medium. Then immediately roll down your inkjet print and walk away. Wait 3-5 minutes too long and the prints get stringy, too soon and you'll get lots of bubbles. If you put on a thick coat wait longer, if you feel your coat was perfect then 4 minutes.
Removing the film after you have waited: Begin at one corner and slowly begin to lift the corner, look for strings and pulling/tearing at the edges. Carefully roll the film onto itself and away from the transfer surface. Work slow and steady no real pressure but slow and steady, this will prevent bubbles from forming as you lift the film off the gooey surface. After you remove the film look carefully at the surface, if you see any large bubbles pop them with a very sharp tiny thin needle, clean the needle every time you pierce a bubble. When the print is almost completely hardened, (**test) dry then put a sheet of bakers parchment down on any areas that are still a little bubbly, smooth with the back of a spoon, bone folder or baren.
**Test: Use gently pressure first and test first to be sure it doesn't stick to the parchment. Post Coat with a spray acrylic like Krylon Crystal Clear (gloss) or Clear Matte or PYM II. Learn mora about PYM II here.
I use the PYM II as a barrier layer as well as a post coat, as a barrier layer it will allow you to work over the transferred image with disturbing it.
How long does the DASS Super Sauce last? My studio is in a walk out basement in New England which means things don't get too cold or warm and humidity is avg 50% most times of the year. I also live a sea level. Environment is different for every one so it's hard to say what length of time the DASS Super Sauce will keep. Sometimes the mix is not optimal/fresh but it is still usable and effective. I have strained old concentrate to remove dried up bits and used it successfully. I also add water to the concentrate to thin it if it seems too thick or I want to use it as a primer coating (see above).
Sealing the containers for both the concentrate and the Supersauce mix is critical and sometimes in my haste things get messy. Even in a sealed container the alcohol does seem to evaporate leaving the supersauce mix a bit more gummy than is immediately useful. After long term storage to restore it and use it I just add more IPA 91% alcohol and stir it until it is the right or near normal consistency. Then it is necessary to allow it to re-mix over several hours so that the bubbles and lumps dissipate. If you get it too thin then just leave the lid off for a while and check on it, the alcohol will evaporate, still to thick add more alcohol, mix and wait.
To help store the concentrate and the supersauce mix for long term storage I cut a sheet of plastic/polypropylene bags from cereal/cracker bags and place the sheet on the top of my jars before I seal them with a tight lid. The plastic sheet helps get a tight I also put vaseline around the lid to help with same issue. seal but allows me to reopen the jars later. I also put petroleum jelly around the lid to help with same issue. Sometimes the jars sit for so long I have to use a hair dryer to heat them up a bit so I can unscrew the lids. I have lost much strength in my hands so that is a work around for me. Hair dryers are perfect for applying some fast head to loosen lids on the supersauce jars. BUT NOT TOO MUCH HEAT...there is alcohol inside the jar! The Super Sauce does get old and very sticky but it's still very workable just with more effort.
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